Beyond apparel: How Bangladesh can develop new exports
Bangladesh urgently needs to diversify its economy. The country has a limited ability to produce and export sophisticated goods. It ranks low (128th out of 145 countries) on the Economic Complexity Index, which measures the diversity of a country's exports. Except for some petroleum-based economies, the country is one of the most narrowly concentrated economies in Asia. Exports remain largely focused on the apparel sector, which constitutes over 80 percent of exports. The apparel industry earns $40 billion in exports, while no other sector brings in more than $1 billion in an economy worth nearly half a trillion dollars.
Historically, Bangladesh has shown its ability to diversify its export base. In the late 1970s, goods made from jute fibre accounted for around 70 percent of total merchandise exports when the apparel industry's share was less than four percent. The share of the apparel industry increased to 75 percent in the early 2000s, a remarkable feat in transforming an agrarian economy towards a labour-intensive, export-oriented manufacturing country. This success led to export concentration in the apparel sector.
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The rise of the apparel industry reduced the share of traditional exports like jute and leather, which have stagnated at around one billion dollars for decades. With over 85 percent of the labour force in informal jobs, Bangladesh needs job-centric and export-driven manufacturing growth to diversify its economy and create more formal employment.
A key to diversifying Bangladesh's export basket lies in replicating the success of the apparel industry. Partnerships were crucial to the apparel sector's stellar success. In the late 1970s, a Bangladeshi apparel manufacturing company, Desh Garments, created a joint venture with the Republic of Korea's Daewoo Corporation, combining local cheap and trainable labour with its foreign counterpart's technological expertise and market access. More than one hundred Bangladeshi technical staff were trained at Daewoo's factory for six months, enabling the transfer of essential technical expertise and contributing to the development of the apparel sector. Some of these workers later became entrepreneurs.
To be a major player in chip manufacturing, the Indian conglomerate Tata is sending hundreds of staff overseas to its technical partner for training in semiconductor fabrication. Training and technology transfer occur most efficiently and effectively when both parties in a partnership have a shared business interest. Partnerships—government-government, private-private, or public-private—are vital for sector development in developing economies.
For instance, Chile was historically known as a copper exporter. Its transformation into a global seafood exporter, thanks to the Japan-Chile Salmon Project, is an example of a successful partnership. This project transferred advanced aquaculture technologies and provided crucial market access, with public-private partnerships making the knowledge widely available.
To bring economic diversification to fruition, Bangladesh's government and development partners can focus on developing partnerships based on sound economics and honest intentions. This is a crucial element in the country's diversification efforts. Bangladesh's world-class non-governmental organisations can unite communities, disseminate technologies, and train the workforce. This is a unique advantage for Bangladesh which is not currently used in the economic diversification initiatives.
Governments and their development partners often work with many industries at once to address shared policy or regulatory challenges. While this broad approach has benefits, it can make it harder to scale up emerging industries. Focusing resources on a few key sectors, backed by a long-term plan with clear goals, is usually more effective.
Development finance institutions can assist. They have experience in developing partnerships by managing geopolitical challenges, ensuring equitable returns, supporting public-private cooperation, and above all, supporting economic benefits. They should focus on one sector at a time, providing comprehensive support across the value chain to mobilise investments and achieve measurable export goals.
The country needs to diversify into new sectors and simultaneously strengthen the apparel industry through innovative products and access to new markets. With approximately five percent of global export share, Bangladesh's apparel industry continues to present growth opportunities. The country can diversify its economy by replicating the apparel industry's successful model of international partnerships, technical training, and targeted long-term planning.
Bangladesh's economic diversification has remained a goal rather than an outcome for decades. A focused approach built on transparent partnerships and targeted industrial development can convert these long-discussed possibilities into real progress. International partnerships, targeted training, and long-term planning offer a practical path to developing new industries and expanding the country's economic base.
Bidyut Kumar Saha is lead investment officer at ADB Bangladesh Resident Mission.
Chandan Sapkota is public management economist at ADB Sectors Department.
Views expressed in this article are the author's own.
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