Beauty of a lake, mountains, alpine forest and waterfall
The turquoise blue waters of Lake Brienz shimmered under the soft rays of the autumn afternoon sun. As we stepped out of our car near the boat jetty, we were greeted by the lakeside promenade stretching westwards. The promenade offered several kilometres for walking, jogging, and sunbathing. In some areas, it widened, providing park-like seating. Free-to-use easy chairs were stationed along the route, with a polite request for users to return them after use. The autumn weather was mild, and as the sun began to set behind the mountains on the western side of the lake, the peaks on the opposite shore were bathed in an autumn glow.
Our Journey to Lake Brienz
For all latest news, follow The Daily Star's Google News channel. It was a sunny September morning when the four of us (my wife, two friends, and I) set off from Geneva to Lake Brienz. The lake is part of the Bernese Oberland region and is near the popular tourist destination of Interlaken. Despite its proximity to Interlaken, the area remains relatively quiet. The turquoise colour of the lake, the alpine forests on its shores, and the nearby waterfall make it particularly appealing.
Google Maps indicated that the journey would take two hours and 38 minutes. However, for us, any journey over two hours must include a coffee break. Personally, I find roadside stops particularly attractive due to the natural beauty surrounding them. As a result, our journey took a little over three hours.
A Lakeside Retreat
Our hotel was a large Swiss chalet by the lakeside, where we had booked two rooms – each with a balcony overlooking the lake. From our rooms, we could enjoy the stunning view of the turquoise waters. Afternoon tea and lively conversation on the balcony became an added highlight during our stay.
Twilight Stroll and Dinner
As we strolled leisurely along the promenade, the sun set, and twilight gradually gave way to darkness. It was time for dinner. There were several restaurants along the lakeside, and we quickly found one (Restaurant Steinbock) that suited us. The menu featured various types of fish, including the famous filet de perche. This fish, commonly found in Swiss lakes, was a delightful addition to the menu. For dessert, we enjoyed crème brûlée, served with an artistic touch – a fresh mirabelle and its leaves delicately placed on top.
Exploring Nature Park Giessbach
Across the lake lies Nature Park Giessbach, which can be reached via a combination of ferry and funicular train. However, having missed the morning ferry, we decided to drive up. Unfortunately, while following the Google map, we missed a critical turn at the park entrance and ended up climbing a narrow, steep road. While the passengers enjoyed the breath-taking views of the forest, the driver found the ascent increasingly difficult. Eventually, we decided to turn back and use the old-fashioned method of asking for directions. We stopped near a restaurant where a kind woman provided us with accurate instructions, allowing us to quickly find the park.
A Walk Through the Park
Nature Park Giessbach offers narrow hiking paths through the alpine forest, with the enchanting sight of a waterfall cascading down the hillside. When I caught my first full glimpse of the waterfall, I stood still for a few moments to appreciate its beauty. The only sounds were the falling water, the sun's rays catching the droplets, and the shadows cast by tall trees, creating a somewhat mystical atmosphere. Although I had initially planned to join the others in trekking closer to the waterfall, the height seemed daunting, so I decided against it and returned to join my group for our mid-morning coffee.
Giessbach Hotel
At one end of the park, perched on a cliff by the lakeside, stands a heritage hotel dating back to 1872. The architecture of the building, more reminiscent of a château than a hotel, adds to its charm. Cruise boats from the Brienz train station dock at a landing dedicated to the hotel, and from there, visitors must take a funicular to reach the hotel itself. The hotel boasts a garden terrace, where coffee, snacks, and light meals are served. We were fortunate enough to secure a table at the edge of the cliff, offering an unhindered view of the lake. The combination of good food, great company, and a beautiful setting made for a memorable experience. We lingered there, first enjoying coffee and later a leisurely lunch.
Brunngasse: A Timeless Street
In the afternoon, we took a stroll along Brunngasse, a street often hailed in tourist brochures as one of the most beautiful in Europe. It is a narrow cobblestone lane lined with charming wooden chalets dating back to the 18th century. The houses feature intricate wood carvings and vibrant flower boxes hanging from balconies and window sills. Life here seemed to stand still, evoking feelings of nostalgia and romanticism. Unlike other touristy villages in Europe, there were no souvenir shops, cafes, or restaurants. Instead, walking through the street, one could observe daily life unfolding naturally – adults tending to chores such as mowing lawns and fixing balconies, and children playing in the middle of the street. It was a glimpse of life in its purest form, at its own pace.
The Rothorn Bahn Experience
The highlight of our trip to Brienz was undoubtedly the train journey to Rothorn Bahn, a station situated at an altitude of 2,300 metres. This special cogwheel train runs on narrow-gauge tracks and departs from a dedicated station in Brienz. Although we had originally hoped to travel on a Saturday, we found that all trains were sold out. Even the following day, we struggled to get tickets for our preferred time, but we considered ourselves lucky to secure seats for the journey.
The bright red trains are small, with only three carriages, and offer a delightful contrast against the green slopes of the mountains as they wind their way along the narrow tracks. Passengers are advised to board well in advance of the scheduled departure time. A few minutes before departure, an attendant ensures that all doors are securely locked before signalling the driver to start the journey.
The train moved slowly, reminiscent of a coal-fired steam locomotive, with the familiar sounds of the crankshaft and piston, and smoke billowing from the top of the engine. The nostalgic jhik-jhik sound brought to mind childhood train journeys in Bangladesh. As the train slowly pulled out of the platform, passing the hotels and cafés of Brienz, the bright and sunny day provided perfect views through the open windows. The journey offers spectacular vistas: first of the lake, followed by alpine forests, green valleys, farmhouses with cows grazing, streams running down the slopes, and rocky mountain cliffs at higher altitudes.
Rothorn Summit: A View to Remember
As the train neared its destination, the sky became increasingly overcast, and fog began to roll in, reducing visibility. Close to the station, there was a restaurant and other facilities for tourists, and by this time, it was lunchtime. After enjoying our meal, the cloud cover lifted slightly, providing us with just enough time to take photos and selfies before we had to board the return train.
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