The aroma of caramelised sugar and boiling milk envelopes you the moment you set foot in a sweets factory in Tangail. Workers are seen moving in unison — some diligently stirring the milk over open flames, while others sit in corners skilfully shaping soft, spongy, and light-as-air chhana balls with their hands, which will soon become the legendary chamcham. It is the dedication and trained hands of these artisans that have made the Porabari chamcham a household name in the country for generations.

Photo: Shadab Shahrokh Hai

The origins

"The story of chamcham stretches back nearly 200 years, but the exact records are scarce. Nevertheless, I can say for sure that the name Porabari chamcham originates from the village of Porabari, located about six or seven kilometres from Pachani Bazar," shares Swapan Ghosh, proprietor of JoyKali Mistanna Bhandar and Vice-President of the Tangail Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

According to Ghosh, the popularity of this village, and in turn, the chamcham itself, can be credited to a small but busy river port (located in Porabari) in the British era where goods-laden steamers and launches anchored regularly.

"A bustling steamer terminal at Porabari, in the past, played a vital role in distributing the sweets far and wide. However, after the river dried up, many of these businesses moved to Pachani Bazar, where my family has been operating our sweet shop for generations," he elaborates.

Ghosh proudly shared that his business, JoyKali Mistanna Bhandar, has been making sweets for 85 years. The sweet shop was first set up by his father and after him, Ghosh took over. With hope in his eyes and an infectious smile, he said his son is ready to carry the business forward.

Photo: Shadab Shahrokh Hai

Years ago — like Ghosh's family — humble sweet makers of Tangail, started to experiment with chhana (curdled milk) and sugar syrup, and the result was a masterpiece — a cylindrical and spongy sweet that was neither too dense nor too soft, but just perfect. The praise of this delectable creation spread like wildfire and now, people from all over the country pour into Tangail to get a taste of the legendary chamcham of Porabari.

Photo: Shadab Shahrokh Hai

So, what makes chamcham unique?

The magic of chamcham lies perhaps in its meticulous preparation. It is an art that demands precision, patience, and experience. And unlike many other sweets that rely on external flavourings, the authentic taste of milk and sugar is the star of Porabari chamcham.

"In the making of chamcham, we use fresh milk, sugar, and a touch of flour, but nothing artificial. I believe that this simplicity of ingredients gives the sweet its signature taste, texture, and impressive shelf life. A properly made chamcham stays fresh for days without refrigeration," informs Ghosh.

The heart of chamcham is the freshly prepared curdled milk and then the chhana is kneaded thoroughly to achieve the perfect consistency. It is a labour-intensive and entirely manual process.

Photo: Shadab Shahrokh Hai

Ghosh credits the uniqueness of chamcham to the natural ingredients and traditional preparation methods: "The secret lies in the precise balance of chhana, sugar, and flour. Previously, we have experimented with machines. However, they failed to handle the delicate chhana properly, which is the soul of the chamcham. Every piece is shaped by the hands of our artisans, preserving its authenticity."

After smooth doughs are made, asmall amount of flour is added to enhance the texture. Beautiful oval cylinders are made from the dough — purely by hand — and then are boiled in delicious sugar syrup. Chamcham is mainly cooked in caramelised sugar syrup, unlike most other sweets, and this gives it a rich golden-brown hue and a slightly smoky undertone. A final garnish of mawa (reduced milk solids) is added to elevate the flavour of chamcham to new heights.

Challenges in passing down the legacy

In our culture, sweets are perceived as a quintessential gift during important occasions from family gatherings and weddings to religious festivals.The chamcham of Porabari is undoubtedly one of the most sought-after sweets for gifting, largely because of its durability, as mentioned by Swapan Ghosh. However, Ghosh has highlighted a pressing issue affecting the taste of the sweet, a challenge equally faced by many traditional sweet makers: "I have heard people complaining that sweets don't taste the same as before and their quality is degrading. I believe that the root cause of this issue lies in the milk. Cows used to graze on organic Bermuda grass — also known as Dhruva grass but today, they are fed artificial diets, and with wetlands and greenery disappearing, the quality of milk is not what it once was. This, in turn, negatively affects the richness of our sweets."

The chamcham of Porabari, despite its rich history and widespread fame, now faces numerous challenges, and it is primarily due to the rise of mass-produced sweets, which has led to a decline in the number of skilled artisans making chamcham using traditional methods. Now and then, we see sweets labelled as "chamcham" in markets; however, in reality, they do not follow the authentic recipe of Porabari, leading to a dilution of its unique qualities.

Although the fame of chamcham has spread far beyond Tangail, with Bengali communities overseas longing for its authentic taste, exporting this sweet remains a significant challenge.

Photo: Shadab Shahrokh Hai

Ghosh highlights, "There is a considerable demand for chamcham in Europe and America. However, for us, exporting still remains a logistical challenge. All over Bangladesh, we distribute our sweets, but when it comes to sending them abroad, there are several restrictions. For a time, we even exported our sweets to Japan. However, we stopped exporting at one point."

According to Ghosh, due to the need for fresh ingredients and careful preservation, large-scale exports have not been feasible for sweet makers. A handful of customers often carry the sweets with them when they travel, but a streamlined export process remains a notable hurdle.

Geographical Indication (GI) recognition and its impact

Photo: Shadab Shahrokh Hai

The chamcham of Porabari received the Geographical Indication (GI) recognition, which officially distinguished it as a unique product tied to its place of origin. However, has it benefitted the makers of chamcham?

Questioning the recognition's practical benefits Ghosh answers, "GI recognition has not changed much for us. The situation remains the same."

This recognition was provided to protect traditional practices and prevent counterfeit production. However, no noteworthy steps were taken to preserve the authenticity of chamcham. We need stronger enforcement of validity, greater promotion, and financial incentives for local sweet makers for the GI tag to be truly impactful. Otherwise, the tag will just be another recognition that will go to waste.

"In the making of chamcham, we use fresh milk, sugar, and a touch of flour, but nothing artificial. I believe that this simplicity of ingredients gives the sweet its signature taste, texture, and impressive shelf life. A properly made chamcham stays fresh for days without refrigeration," informs Ghosh.

To reinforce the status of Porabari chamcham as a premium Bengali sweet, nationwide and international campaign can be incredibly beneficial, as it will not only increase sales but will make young confectioners aware of the traditional methods and the significance of chamcham.

With its rich history, unique taste, and most importantly, GI recognition, the Porabari chamcham continues to hold a special place in the hearts of sweet lovers across Bangladesh and beyond. Therefore, it is our responsibility to ensure that this beloved sweet can reach even greater heights and remain a treasured delicacy for generations to come.

Location: JoyKali Mistanna Bhandar