Armenian Church
An ancient sanctuary in Armanitola
Durdana Ghias
'God be merciful to me a sinner' reads the epitaph on the gravestone of Nicholas Peter Pogose of Dhaka who died in 1876 at 47 while one-year-old Arnold rests peacefully bedside Sydney, his two-year old brother who died of diphtheria in 1874.Verses and lines engraved on the old tombstones at the graveyard of the Armenian Church at Armanitola attract visitors to its sacrosanct features while flowers and greenery give the place a tranquil ambience. Men, women and children who belonged to Ispahan and Julfa in another century lie serenely in neat rows on all sides of the 200-year old church seeking in silence the mercy of God. Stories with mixtures of belief and imagination floats in the air as some people said that sweet smells emanate from the graves at night and sometimes a man on a white horse trots around the place. "The first Christian church was founded in Yerevan, Armenia and that is why the Armenian Church is the root of all Christian churches. It is an apostolic church as it was founded by an apostle of Jesus Christ," said Michael Martin, custodian of the Church for the last 20 years. "This is the 'House of God'. All branches of Christianity including Catholics, Baptists and Protestants can pray in this church as we are the origin of Christianity," he said. "All human beings are equal in God's eyes. When you pray in silence from within it does not matter to God which religious denomination you belong to," said Martin. Traders from Armenia frequented this subcontinent as early as 2000 BC. Winding their ways along the tortuous mountains and following the Silk Route through Iran and Afghanistan they came here to trade spices, muslin and precious stones used in wedding rings. "Armenian traders settled down in this area during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar when he offered them freedom of trade and religion," said the custodian from Yerevan. Armenian businessmen who traded in jute and indigo founded the chapel turned church in 1781. The church community that consisted of thousands of Armenian families is left with only nine now seven of them in Dhaka and two in Chittagong. Some are traders, while others are working in embassies. In the late 60s jute companies owned by foreigners were shut down and in the aftermath of the liberation war many Armenian families in the business left this country. "Besides, the pure breed of Armenian families waned as most married out of the Armenian community," said Martin terming it as a natural reason for the decline in the church community. The main gate of the church is turned into a makeshift trash bin where neighbours dump garbage that displays a sense of sheer apathy. There is an open gutter beside the gate that people use as an open toilet. "My own tenant dumps garbage in front of the gate and saying: 'Why should I walk to the container far from my residence when I have makeshift garbage in front of the church'," Martin said. "This church is visited frequently by foreign dignitaries and ambassadors. They too have complained to the authorities about it but nothing has been done," he said. "The tombstones on many graves were stolen because they were of marble and granite," he added. "The Armenian Church celebrates Christmas on January 6, not December 25 as Jesus Christ was born and baptised on that day. Baptism ceremony is also held on January 6," said the custodian who also represents the Greek Orthodox Church in Bangladesh. Sunday services are held in the church but not regularly. Arratoon Stephen of the Armenian community of Dhaka and Narayanganj did marble flooring and electric installation in the church during the Wardenship of Thaddeus S Nahapiet in 1910. When asked how the maintenance cost of the church is raised and if there is any fund crisis Martin said with poise and pride: "My family and I can maintain this church well enough. I will not ask anyone for funds."
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